JINAN, July 19 (Xinhua) -- When graduates wearing elegant, traditional Hanfu-style academic gowns filed onto the stage during a Shandong Youth University of Political Science ceremony earlier this month, the scene could have easily been mistaken for a traditional Chinese costume performance at first glance.
Their new graduation attire integrates traditional Han ethnic aesthetics with distinctive campus cultural symbols. It features an embroidered cloud collar, a flowing cloud-shaped decorative piece draped over the shoulders, and a horse-face skirt printed with patterns of the university's signature ginkgo leaves, its landmark library building, and the official school motto.
"It is far more aesthetically appealing than traditional academic gowns, and serves as an embodiment of Chinese culture," said graduate Yuan Shuhan. She particularly loves the qingniao, or divine blue bird embroidered on the cloud collar. In ancient Chinese mythology it functions as the messenger of a revered goddess. "The bird symbolizes freedom and a promising long journey, carrying wishes for all of us as we forge ahead into the future."
In ancient China, garments were far more than items of daily use: they were tangible carriers of social etiquette, markers of hierarchical status and symbols of personal honor.
For about 1,300 years until its abolition more than a century ago, the keju imperial examination system was the primary channel to identify and recruit talents. "Those who passed the highest palace exam, the final stage of keju, were granted the privilege of wearing special ceremonial adornments: a flower tucked in the hair, or a red sash draped over one shoulder, for example," said Wang Lulu, a fashion design lecturer at the university.
China's modern degree system was established in the 1980s. In 1994, the Academic Degrees Committee of the State Council issued a notice proposing that academic gowns consist of four parts: the academic cap, tassels, academic robe and drapery, and making regulations for different degree levels, discipline categories and wearing occasions.
Square academic caps, wide academic gowns and the tassel-turning ceremony have become one of the most iconic scenes at graduation ceremonies in Chinese universities.
In recent years, however, driven by the rise of China-chic trend and the growth of cultural confidence among the Chinese public, an increasing number of Chinese universities have started adding Chinese cultural elements to their academic regalia.
In 2021, the prestigious Tsinghua University revamped its graduation gowns by incorporating iconic campus symbols, including its historic old gate and university emblem, and replaced standard buttons with traditional Chinese knot closures. In 2024, Shandong University added a cloud collar to its gowns, embroidered with mountain and sea motifs that symbolize a promising future for graduates.
"Graduation ceremonies are one of the most important academic rituals in a student's life," said Zhang Bo, dean of the School of Art Design in the Shandong Youth University of Political Science. Zhang noted that the combination of Chinese cultural elements, unique campus culture and modern design is an exploration of academic etiquette localization. "When students put on these gowns, they not only get great graduation photos but also get to have a unique cultural experience," Zhang added.
The gown was designed by Chen Long, who is based in Caoxian County of Shandong. He said the design was inspired by Hanfu dresses from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
Hanfu, the traditional clothing of China embellished with intricate embroidery, can be traced back to the Han Dynasty (202 B.C.-220 A.D.). It has evolved throughout history, resulting in a diverse array of designs seen in different Chinese cities today.
In recent years, Hanfu has made a big comeback. Today about half of the Hanfu dresses in China are produced in Caoxian, which is home to over 2,800 Hanfu businesses, engaging nearly 100,000 people directly. The county's combined annual online and offline Hanfu sales in 2025 exceeded 13 billion yuan (about 1.9 billion U.S. dollars).
A number of universities have reached preliminary cooperation agreements with garment manufacturers in Caoxian to co-develop new Chinese-style academic regalia.
When Dr. Ron K. Patterson, the Murray State University president, attended the graduation ceremony of Shandong Technology and Business University earlier this year, he was impressed by the new Chinese-style academic gowns, hailing the designs as "a beautiful demonstration of Eastern aesthetic charm."
Tao Hu, president of the university in Shandong, said the shift from adopting Western-style academic regalia to rolling out homegrown designs infused with distinct Chinese cultural elements reflects the growing cultural confidence in China's higher education sector.
"As we prepare students to enter society and engage with the world, higher education institutions are also nurturing a strong sense of patriotism among the younger generation, infusing traditional cultural heritage with fresh contemporary vitality," he said.
For graduating students, donning the custom regalia emblazoned with their alma mater's elements and traditional Chinese patterns has become a poignant, unforgettable farewell ritual before they embark on the next chapter of their lives.
"The custom design carries heartfelt good wishes for graduates," said Cheng Yang, a 2026 graduate of the university. "It reminds us of where we started our academic journey, and spurs us to reach greater heights in the days ahead." ■
