Annie Sanders of the United States competes during the women's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
WUJIANG, China, May 9 (Xinhua) -- American climber Annie Sanders edged two-time Olympic champion Janja Garnbret to claim the women's lead title at the World Climbing Series Wujiang stop on Saturday, while Japan's Neo Suzuki captured the men's crown.
In the women's final, all eyes were on Garnbret as the Slovenian star chased her 50th victory in World Climbing Series competition. Instead, the 18-year-old Sanders produced a clutch performance, making her final move just before time expired to match Garnbret's high point of 43+.
Because Sanders had ranked ahead of Garnbret in the semifinal, the American secured the tiebreak victory and her first women's lead gold medal of the season.
"It was pretty surreal in the moment, but now I'm pretty calm," Sanders said. She added that she could hear the crowd erupt after Garnbret's climb and knew the Slovenian had reached high on the route.
"So I knew she had gotten pretty high. I just wasn't sure where. So when I fell, I wasn't entirely sure I had won yet, but when I found out it was pretty overwhelming."
Sanders said she noticed the countdown clock while climbing and knew she was running out of time.
"I knew I had to save enough time for me to be able to attempt to complete the route, but also waited it out a little bit, so that I could get a little bit of endurance back. I guess it worked out in the end."
Heading into the competition, Garnbret had recorded 49 wins across World Climbing Series and former World Cup events, one short of the 50-win mark. She had finished runner-up at the season-opening event in Keqiao a week earlier, and again fell just short of the top step of the podium.
Despite the disappointment, she said she was encouraged by her form.
"I was kind of locked up a little bit. It's a pity because I didn't feel pumped and I know I could top," the 27-year-old said. "But nevertheless, I'm happy with my climbing. I know that I've been training well over winter and I know that I'm still strong."
In the men's final, Suzuki prevailed in a stacked field featuring Olympic champion Alberto Gines Lopez, reigning lead world champion Lee Do-hyun and seven-time former World Cup winner Sorato Anraku of Japan.
The 19-year-old had only narrowly advanced to the final after placing eighth in the semifinal, but delivered under pressure to secure victory.
"Honestly, after my performance in the semifinal, everyone felt very strong to me, so I didn't really think I could win," Suzuki said.
"But I gave it my all, used my strengths, and pushed through. I'm glad I could win."
Suzuki added that the final route suited his style because it allowed him to rely on his finger strength, which he described as one of his biggest advantages. He also said his goal for the new season is to win at least three gold medals. ■
Gold medalist Annie Sanders (C) of the United States, silver medalist Janja Garnbret (L) of Slovenia and Seo Chaehyun of South Korea pose during the awarding ceremony after the women's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Lee Dohyun of South Korea competes during the men's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Suzuki Neo of Japan competes during the men's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Seo Chaehyun of South Korea competes during the women's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Gold medalist Suzuki Neo (C) of Japan, silver medalist Alberto Gines Lopez (L) of Spain and Lee Dohyun of South Korea pose during the awarding ceremony after the men's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Spectators watch the women's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Janja Garnbret of Slovenia competes during the women's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
Suzuki Neo of Japan celebrates after the men's lead final at World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 in Suzhou, east China's Jiangsu Province, May 9, 2026. (Photo by Wang Xuzhong/Xinhua)
