by Dames Alexander Sinaga
MUARO JAMBI, Indonesia, Nov. 30 (Xinhua) -- On the banks of the Batanghari River in Indonesia's Jambi province, where morning mist hangs low above the water and birdsong echoes through the forest, lies one remarkable yet understated archaeological treasure.
The Muaro Jambi Temple Compound is a vast network of ancient Buddhist temples, monasteries, and learning centers. For visitors who traverse its red-brick paths, the complex offers a vivid account of the intellectual, spiritual, and cultural currents that shaped the Malay world more than a millennium ago.
Located in Muaro Jambi Regency about 20 kilometers from Jambi City, the provincial capital, the site is reached via a bridge that crosses the Batanghari, Sumatra's longest river.
Each year ahead of Vesak Day, Buddhist monks from across Indonesia and from other countries, including Thailand and Bhutan, travel to the compound to commemorate the birth, enlightenment, and passing of Buddha.
Rafsanjani, a local tourist guide who goes by a single name, recalled seeing foreign monks visit the area near his village for the first time when he was a child. The group had traveled from Jambi City by traditional bumboats.
"They docked at a pier near our village and then walked for six minutes to the temples. I was very surprised to see they were all completely bald," said the 29-year-old, who is a Muslim. "Later, I understood that they came here on pilgrimage to gain spiritual strength."
Indonesia is home to the world's largest Muslim population, and residents in Rafsanjani's village are all Muslims who mainly farm durian and lanzones.
Covering more than 3,000 hectares, the Muaro Jambi Temple Compound is believed to form one of the largest Buddhist educational complexes in Southeast Asia. Archaeologists say the site thrived between the 7th and 12th centuries during the era of the Srivijaya Kingdom, a maritime empire known for its influence over regional trade and its commitment to Buddhist learning.
Decades of excavations have uncovered temple foundations, meditation chambers, ceremonial structures, and artifacts ranging from terracotta figurines to tools used for ancient manuscripts. Such findings have led some scholars to describe the area as a "Buddhist university," drawing comparisons with Nalanda Mahavihara in India.
Unlike many ancient temples built of stone, the structures at Muaro Jambi were constructed with locally made red bricks, giving them a warm glow under the tropical sun.
Despite its importance, much of the complex remains unexcavated, with dense vegetation covering numerous mounds believed to be remnants of undiscovered structures.
Visitors today can explore several restored temples, including Kedaton, Gumpung, Tinggi, and Kembar Batu.
Local resident Dita Rachmayani, 21, who holds a bachelor's degree in history, has visited the compound three times. She said each structure offers a quiet space to reflect on the past, framed by tall trees and the distant murmurs of the river.
"It's also very fun to explore the complex by bicycle. The paths are calm and shaded, often lined with butterflies and forest flowers," she said, calling on authorities to strengthen protection and promotion of the site.
Although recognized as a national cultural heritage site, Muaro Jambi Temple Compound continues its long quest for global recognition. Proposed to UNESCO in 2009 as a World Heritage Site, the complex remains on the organization's tentative list.
Rafsanjani hopes the site will gain wider national and international attention, noting that community-led initiatives such as festivals, cultural tours, and educational activities have increased in recent years.
"I'm pinning my hopes on that. It would also help develop the economy of villagers around the heritage area," he said, adding that foreign-language training for tourist guides would further support local development.
"These efforts aim not only to preserve history, but also to empower nearby communities through sustainable tourism," Rafsanjani said. ■
